Compounded in Chiang Mai Part Two

 

Front view of our house in Chiang Mai

In missiological circles, “Mission Compounds” do not always conjure positive images. The criticism was that local people to whom missionaries wanted to witness would feel excluded and unwelcome. Depending on the situation and personalities involved, I could see how that criticism could be valid. In our case however, and in the case of much of the mission work of that era in Thailand, the work was in far flung villages and the compound was simply a place where missionaries stayed between trips to villages. It also made sense to put the compound in the city where financial arrangements and communications could more easily take place and cities are also transportation hubs. Houses were built in the interest of avoiding paying rent so that over the long term, there would be financial savings. In any case, most houses in Chiang Mai were surrounded by high, block or brick walls topped with broken glass or barbed wire. So the average Chiang Mai house was more compound like than the mission compound which was much more open and accessible.

We were aware of the criticisms of mission compounds and felt our job was to do all we could to build relationships with people so who ever came would feel welcome where ever we lived and whenever they visited. Equally important, we also wanted to be comfortable in the villages and among the people where ever we visited. As tall and white as we were (and still are), I figured we would always be seen as different but if we were truly comfortable, then it would indicate we accepted them and their culture and then that could open the door for them to accept and be comfortable with us.

Here the pros are threshing the rice, beating
rice bundles against the side of the large basket
to separate the rice grain from the stalks.

Anyway, this particular mission compound was not actually owned by our mission. Foreign (non Thai)
people and organizations cannot own land in Thailand. However, Thai based “foundations” are able to own land. So the land the houses were on was owned by the Church of Christ in Thailand (CCT) which was and remains a legal entity in Thailand that came out of early Presbyterian mission work. The American Baptist mission had made a deal that they would build the houses and guest house on the CCT land in Chiang Mai and have use of the buildings and property for 30 years. When the 30 years had expired, it would all be returned to the CCT.

Marcia working on her threshing technique
in the field opposite our Chiang Mai house

When we came to live on the mission compound in 1983, the agreement was already 20+ years old. So the houses weren’t to remain with the Baptists too much longer but we enjoyed its use while it lasted. The city has long since swallowed the area, but at the time, it was sort of on the edge of town and across the street from our house was a rice field. So we got an introduction to rice harvesting and even got to practice a little Thai style hand threshing.

There were small, quiet roads surrounding the rice field that made a nice jogging track maybe a half mile around. I made it a goal to catch up to and pass any foot pedaled, 3 wheeled taxis (sahm law) that happened to be in front of me. I doubt my bow-legged, running style and wheezing, gasping, heavy breathing impressed anyone but when it came to jogging, I needed all the incentives I could find.

Marcia and Somjit in the kitchen

It was mostly quiet at the compound except on weekends. Apparently, somewhere in the neighborhood behind our compound cockfights were held on weekends and that generated enthusiastic cheering. In particular, there was one woman that had a voice that carried exceptionally well, powered by world-class lung capacity. We couldn’t tell if her rooster was winning or losing but her voice rose above the others either way.

I’m not sure if the house we stayed in is even standing today and what was a rice field has long been turned into athletic facilities for Prince Royal College. Alas, today the pedal powered taxis have been replaced with motorized tuk-tuks far surpassing my jogging ability. And the quiet road? Sigh…it has now become a busy, multi lane throughfare where the muffler-less vehicles chase any joggers out of the way. I would also guess our cock fighting neighbors have taken their roosters further out of the city and into the country side if they could find some. And our cheering woman has likely gone quiet.